Slider and I hiked together up to Jay Peak—the last big peak on the Long Trail. It was surprisingly not a difficult climb at all and was over much sooner than expected. I woke up thinking that once I had Jay down, that it’d be a smooth 9 miles to the border between Vermont and Canada. Not so much. The Long Trail continues to be a stout journey from finish to the end, or at least Maine junction where it breaks off from the AT. I kept thinking, ‘I don’t need to go .25 miles off trail for water because it is all downhill from here,’ but ended up making the journey at Shooting Star shelter (a sweet lean to on top of a giant boulder near the top of a mountain). I hoped to see a Mounty at the border, but Fun fact: unlike the PCT, the Long Trail ends at the Canadian border, but then the trail sharply turns back into the U.S. Unless you want to bushwhack across the border, there is no way to get into Canada. Oh well, makes the pick up and ending logistics easier. To my shock, the trail was a solid up and down until the very end, which snuck up on me. I turned a corner, and there it was in all its grandness-the end sign! My toes are jumping for joy and making me promise not to wear closed toed shoes for the rest of the summer. More foot photos to come… 3570′ gain
My day started out with the Mahoosuc Notch-esque (the so-called hardest mile on the AT) rock scramble slippery wet jumble of Devil’s Gulch. Unlike yesterday, today was pretty toasty. The most notable part of my day was at the end. I crossed Highway 242 and saw a guy sitting in his truck. Call me slightly paranoid, but my guidebook warns that the shelter that I was planning to stay at is close to the road. Furthermore, I had read that a woman hiking the LT alone who had stayed at a shelter even farther along the trail had been threatened by a man. Considering I had spent so many days alone at shelters, I didn’t know what to think. When I got to Jay Camp, maybe .3 miles from the road, I saw there was another hiker. Hmm…that ends my streak of alone sheltering. These situations usually go well, but if the guy was sketchy, I didn’t want to be alone at a shelter with him. We introduced ourselves (his name is Slider), and ended up being really cool. I even offered him a ride in our car back to the civilization after the hike. Tomorrow is going to be the big day! 5815′ gain
Made it to Johnson last night, but the woman who picked me up in the pouring rain as I was hitch-hiking into town was really curious where I came from and what had happened to me. It wasn’t until several hours later when I finally looked in the mirror that I understood: my entire face was smeared in mud like a television war solider! Got my first shower and laundry for a week.
As expected, I had a hard time dragging myself out of time and sometime around 11, (for the first time in 10,000 miles of hiking), I stuck my thumb out and IMMEDIATELY got a ride back to the trail. Cool trail today with maple syrup tap lines over the trail!
Also, went by this cool cave/long rock formation that reminded me of the Great Wall of China in the Bob Marshall Wilderness with waterfalls running off.
The weather wasn’t great so I didn’t get much of a view, but it cleared up for the end of the day at Spruce Camp. I was alone again at the shelter–its been like that since Sunrise Camp–6 days of being alone at shelters. This one felt a bit haunted and smelled funny, so I hammocked. I’ve been pushing so hard, its funny to think it will all be over in less than 2 days. 4605′ gain (similar to yesterday, but felt much easier today….being clean will do that to you).
Most epic day ever. Well, on this trail. So, thunderstorms are supposed to be rolling in this afternoon AND I have to go over the highest, most exposed peak on the whole trail today. This means getting up at 5AM and booking it. Going over Mt. Mansfield was awesome. It looks like a profile of a face from the side, so I climbed ladders and tight squeezes that were kinda sketchy for something that counts as a “hike” instead of a “climb” up to the Chin. The mile-long high alpine-tundra walk to the Forehead was ALL mine even though there is a parking lot near the top that usually leads to a crowded summit.
Then there was a sweet downclimb referred to as “an exposed pitch unsuitable for dogs.” Once out of lightening territory, I was on a major time crunch to make it 20 miles to the trail angel run hostel, that preferred me to check in before 6. All good and well except for that I got lost on the roadwalk in Smuggler’s Notch on Highway 108 near Stowe. I thought the trail would cross the street, but instead if was somewhere to my left or right along Highway 108. (This might be a good time to say that I bought the wrong guidebook, or at least needed a different one or a map for this trail). I was able to deduce from the sign at the roadside kiosk that the trail was to the left, but I kept walking, and walking. I found the Smuggler’s Notch picnic area, but no white blazes anywhere. So I kept going, and going, and going. This being my first thru-hike with a Smartphone, I figured I’d try my luck. Sure enough, half an hour of going completely out of my way, I found out that the white blazes continued back at the Smuggler’s notch picnic area to the left of/BEHIND the bathrooms (thank you to someone’s trailjournal where I read that!! May my entry help someone else in need as well!).
For the rest of the day, there was some super steep ski trail and between Sterling Pond shelter and Whiteface shelter, I really could have water which was impossible to find (note to other hikers: stock up! Made up some time on the downhill of a logging road walking in the rain. How’d my toes feel about the downhill….owwww! 4610′ gain
So I figured that my 5:30 am 2-mile walk from Damforth shelter to the road would be a pleasant, easy, stroll. No such luck. It was so steeply downhill, that I really feel like the trail was designed to only travel over the hardest parts of any mountain.
First resupply in 5 days in Jonesville after a confusing roadwalk (note to self: next time, bring maps). Luckily, my new smartphone came in useful and I found the route OK. I mailed a box of food to myself but there was no place to eat in town, so I downed a can of chili I’d been clever enough to send myself in prep for what the guidebooks say is the hardest part of the trail–Jonesville to Johnson over Mt. Mansfield. It actually hasn’t been as bad as the slump over Camel’s Hump. There is more elevation gain, but waaay more water, so I can keep hydrated at least (although it is getting *hot*).
Some of the trail through this section is so vertical and rocky it reminds me of Mahoosuc Notch on the AT…full out boulder scrambling up only to have to go down on the otherside. But, I ended up at this beautiful lodge right under Mt. Mansfield’s chin and had it all to myself. Here’s to tomorrow—getting over the highest point in Vermont before the afternoon lightening sets in. 6025′ gain (the most elevation gain in one day for my hike of this trail, but still easier than yesterday)
I knew today would be dry, but had no idea how dry it’d actually be. I filled up my Platypus completely with 2.5L of water at the Stark’s nest rainwater catchment and hoped that would do me over Burnt Rock (another exposed, fun, rock climbing type peak) and onto the next water…somewhere. I saw a lot of people today–some probably southbounders…but water…not so much.
I could see Camel’s Hump from Burnt Rock and it was an intimidating sight all day. I can’t believe how exposed the peaks are and how steep the rock is (seriously not a Western trail). Again, I’m glad the rock isn’t wet. The ups and downs were more serious today with far distances between tannin-red trickles of water.
The hard day’s work was rewarded though when I got to Camel’s Hump–a cool exposed granite peak with lots of sweet alpine veg. But the downhill–my knees feel like they did the first time I did the Appalachian Trail with Lyme disease–and my feet are begging for a stop. I had Damforth shelter all to myself and set up my hammock outside of it–hoping that by elevating my poor feet as I sleep, they may forgive me for abusing them. Stoked for my 1st resupply in 5 days tomorrow. 4255′ gain (the hardest day of the trail so far elevation wise, and, I daresay, even after finishing, I still think it was the hardest day)
Despite last night’s rain, today is hot and clear with lots of up and downs. I’m beginning to learn that even more so than the Appalachian Trail, every mountain I can see from a view will be a mountain I will need to climb up. Water situation is still a little less than ideal, but at least its not hot. Still relatively bugless…
I’ve seen people today and chatted with some section hikers. Coming up near Mt. Abraham, there were tons of cars in the parking lot. I passed lots of families and hearing the parents telling their kids that “this young lady is walking all the way to Canada” really made me feel encouraged. I always fancy myself somewhat of a lone-woods person, but I really do enjoy and thrive off of seeing and talking with other people. The magic of the trail really is getting to meet people from all over—people I might not run into or have a chance to chat with otherwise. I also like the idea that some kid I ran into may feel inspired to hike the LT some day.
Mt. Abraham was a fun mountain with lots of semi-rock climbing and scrambling and a little exposure, which is always fun. It was great to soar above treeline and walk on granite slabs–very pleased that they weren’t wet and that it wasn’t raining. On more than a few sections of this trail, I’ve thought how scary the rocky parts would be if they were wet. It reminds me of going down Bemis Mountain on the AT and how I kept slipping over and over again…
I’m not going so fast that I can’t enjoy the lichen and moss and other high altitude-tundra alpine species. The area near Mt. Abraham is on a beautiful ridgeline near Mad River Glen ski area. Today has been my most fun day of hiking the LT so far and I’m really enjoying “bagging” so many peaks on the ridgeline with relatively little effort.
The finish point at the Mad River Glen ski warming hut, Stark’s Nest, was a fantastic reward. It has a view out to the Whites and I’m not sure I’ve ever seen the ridgeline of the Whites from afar–absolutely terrifyingly up and down. Hard to believe I’ve gone up that twice! Stark’s Nest also had a privy and rain water collection barrel–so all the services of a regular shelter. It was a grand place to sleep and I enjoyed eating my dinner as I read old newspaper clippings about the history of the place. 4080′ gain
Crazy up and down journey through the Breadloaf Wilderness. The guidebook warns that water on the LT north of Maine junction is scarce and despite all the rain we’ve had, I’m finding it true. Walked past Middlebury’s ski slope and a whole mountain owned by the college. Also did a “run off trail and seek lower ground to avoid lightening” event which involved setting up my tarp and sitting the storm out while I made tea with the little water I had left (totally worth it).
I’m staying the night in Skyline Lodge which is the sweetest shelter known to a trail looking out at a lily covered pond—and I had it all to myself! Oh, also a night lightening storm that rocked the shelter’s roof and flash-boomed right above me. I took solace in the .2 miles I had walked off trail (and downhill) to get to the lodge. Maybe that was the .2 miles that spared me. 4140′ gain
Stayed at the Yellow Deli Inn and they fed me well and seemed to appreciate what I thought of as thoughtful questions about their beliefs and lifestyle. They are good people and I was glad to visit them again. I took the bus back to the AT with 5 days worth of food and a heavy loaded pack, ready for the scary adventure that lies ahead.
After a relatively quick and painless journey from Route 4 to Maine Junction (actually, easier than I remember from the AT), I said goodbye to the spot that is the furthest north I’ve been in Vermont where the AT and LT split. I was worried about the trail north of Maine junction. It is well known to be infinitely harder, steeper, rockier, rootier, with more ups and downs. To my surprise, it wasn’t bad at first. I was enjoying a lack of rain and imminent thunder as I’d be experiencing, but then there was insane steep up and down without views. The LT did not fail to live up to its reputation.
The most exciting discovery was a part of the trail covered in moose hair–a moose must have died there and nothing was left but its fur. Finally saw some more LT hikers in the shelter tonight…northbounders who are clearly experiencing the joys of a long hike for the first time…tallboy beers,smokes, and battery powered radio included! 2880′ gain (which was REALLY hard and felt more like 4000′ gain)
This section of the AT was supposed to be pretty damaged by Hurricane Irene, but I wasn’t sure where the damage started. My internet research before I left didn’t show anything about closures, but, like always, one can never know what the trail will bring.
I woke up earlyish to attempt making it over Mt. Killington before afternoon thunderstorms set in. Crossing the Clarendon Gorge/Mill River Suspension bridge, I looked down at the rapids and thought: “On the PCT or CDT, there wouldn’t be a suspension bridge here. There would be a ‘hope I don’t die’ fording moment.”
Along Gould Brook, the trail usually follows the brook, but it must have swelled a lot during Hurricane Irene. There were some cairns up showing a higher route, which I ended up taking because the trail seemed to be washed away. it was hard to follow–another hiker said he could lost hiking it near dusk, which is totally understandable. None of the fords were more than ankle deep–it was crazy to think it could have swelled 20 feet high last fall.
The trail spit me out a road and as I looked to find the trail, I saw a large pieces of steel wrapped around a tree. It was the old car bridge the AT/LT goes over. The bridge was washed out. Luckily, the GMC built a little wooden ladder with a branch as a handrail for hikers to get across some debris still where the bridge was. The road 100 feet up was washed out with a hole the length of a big rig and 8 feet deep. Hikers could walk around it, but a car couldn’t.
It started raining and was a little cold up Killington. I saw some hail, and there was no way to get a view. It cleared up on the onr way down, but it took longer to get down that I expected! When I got to the road, I tried to hitch, but miraculously, the Rutland bus stopped by and gave me a ride to the Inn at the Long Trail. Owen, the same bartender I had last year on the AT, was working and it felt good to see a familiar face and eat the Irish stew I had been so dreaming of. I had a Long Trail-Guinnesss half and half and will catch a ride into Rutland to stay with the 12 Tribes at the Yellow deli and hostel…mmm…love their food. Last year,my hike was pretty streamlined, but I’m glad that this time around, I can see the Deli again. 3540′ gain